27 December 2011–11 January 2012
This December, I went back to China for the first time in six years, and experienced my first Chinese winter since 1995. (It’s colder than Swiss winters!) Although I had an idyllic childhood in Beijing and have very many fond memories–kicking soccer balls down streets, drinking Sprite from a baby bottle while laying on the couch and watching TV sideways, large and rowdy family dinners–I spent the majority of my life in the clean, bland suburbs of northern California. And now when I go back, I always find myself battling with culture shock. It’s a bit embarrassing, as I consider Beijing my hometown. But being there, I can’t say that I really feel at home. I guess you can say that I’m culturally confused.
It’s a strange feeling: things are familiar, but at the same time, uncomfortably so. In the mornings I drank my milk boiled, like the way I used to; I dipped my almond cookies in them. In the afternoons, on days I wasn’t in the city, we took walks; I never got over how dirty everything is. (If anything, I think Chinese people are so obsessed with being clean because everything is so dirty. That’s why we take showers before we go to bed. That’s why we take our shoes off when entering a home. And that’s also why for the first two years of living in America, my mom would always take a newspaper with her to sit on when we went to movie theaters. Of course, in California, there’s no need for that. And I guess I got used to that.) In the evenings, we would watch some TV–either something about killing the Japanese or some imperial teledrama–and I would take a footbath. Life in China hasn’t changed since I moved away; these were all the things that I used to do, but it leaves me craving for my Western comforts. I missed the ubiquity of American brands, I missed long showers with good water pressure in non-rusty shower basins, but perhaps what I missed the most was the feeling of independence and freedom. Yeah, I think that’s what I ultimately miss the most when I go to China.
Anyway, this time around, I took some photos to document my time there. In the previous years that I went, I stayed between one to two months, and inevitably always got extremely homesick, so this time, I went for only two weeks, which I think is a much better measure of time for me. Not enough to get depressed, but still long enough to feel that I’ve spent a substantial amount of time with my family. Unlike previous visits, we were also in Beijing city a lot, which I really liked because it’s much more developed than the countryside where my grandparents live.

But the food was always good!

We had hot pot (fondue chinoise) the first night I was there, and it pretty much continued on like that food-wise for the rest of the two weeks. What was the beginning of my culinary downfall was the Peking Duck I had in my second week. Literally ate myself sick: couldn’t even think about eating for dinner or for breakfast the next morning. In fact, I’m a bit afraid that I might have ruined Peking Duck for myself forever. A glutton’s punishment, I’m sure.

What you see above is seafood night: freshly shucked oysters with horseradish, fried oyster, fish, crevettes, and sea snail. And it was all oh-so-good! In fact, I’m pretty sure it was this meal that did me in. I had seven fresh oysters that night, and five more the evening after, and it wasn’t too long before I felt queasy and lightheaded. Long story short, I found myself hooked up to an IV in an infirmary, 3 AM in the morning, ten hours before my flight out to Munich. I never did find out if it was because I simply ate too much…